February is prime orange picking time here in Healdsburg.  You can sometimes find a tree here and there, mingled amongst the vines. There is one  spot off Westside Road where a small orange grove just thrives.  I pass it whenever I’m going into town. I was kind of sad to see a fence go up a couple of years ago. Don’t worry you can still get one if you happen to be biking by. Just watch out! Someone really likes their oranges. We’re fortunate enough to have a tree on our property. Each morning we’ll brave the cold, damp air and fill up a small wire basket.  The fruit is seedless and the ripe oranges are spiked with a sharp acidity that makes eating them outright immensely pleasurable. Once we have a large batch, Emily will take down the juicer and get to work peeling and juicing. The entire house fills with orange essence. We’ll have deliciously tart orangensaft for days. Because of the acidity, we cut it with water and often add it to our morning smoothies. This year I’m thinking candied peels and some orange bitters. That may make a nice addition to Em’s Manhattan.

We here at VERGE Wine Cellars have been known for quite a while to be (dare I say) connoisseurs of pork. Mike has raised a couple of pigs and will do so again. Needless to say, we’ve all enjoyed the bounty of bacon, ribs, hams and the multitude of chops, shanks, and roasts.  Mr Pig - Thank you for all you do!

We learned today that we were selected as one of the wineries to pour in the VIP section at Cochon 555 in Napa later in February. Now this is a pork lovers dream event. 5 Chefs are each challenged to prepare a heritage pig from head to tail.  For the competition, each 125 pound heritage pig can be braised, grilled, pressed, pickled, rubbed, smoked, seared, sauced, spiced, injected, marinated, cured or otherwise prepared. Oh My!

The purpose of COCHON 555 is to promote heritage pigs and breed diversity in local and national communities. Here are the details for the event in Napa. If you can’t make it there, check out all the other great cities they are traveling to.

COCHON 555
SILVERADO RESORT
NAPA, CALIFORNIA
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 28th, 4:30 - 8 p.m.
($99 room rates available)
VIP Experience Starts at 3:00 pm

According to the National Climatic Data Center, January is the wettest month of the year here in Healdsburg. On average, we receive between 8 -9 inches of rain at the start of each year.  And even when the forecast calls for clear skies, which it has all this week, there is still a morning layer of fog. It makes getting out of bed most difficult but the coffee does taste better when there’s a chill in the air.  Both Mike and I have wood stoves that heat our houses. When it’s pouring down and still dark outside in the early morning, I love to go out to the wood shed and gather up a load of kindling. To me, there’s something peaceful and right about starting a fire first thing using embers from the night before. It also impresses the wife when I show initiative in this regard.  After it’s been raining for days and there’s no way we can stay cooped up a second more, we gear up and get out there for a hike. This I highly recommend.

In addition to giving 10% of our gross sales this December to Feeding America, Mike and I have decided to participate again in the 6th Annual Menu for Hope. This wonderful charitable drive is hosted by Chez Pim and a revolving group of food bloggers from around the world and supports one of our other favorite charities, the World Food Program.  Please check out the links below to read all about how this campaign works and how you can help, either by purchasing a few (or a couple dozen!) raffle tickets or donate directly.

If the response we received last year is any indication, you better get bidding! We’ve upped the ante a bit by throwing in a magnum and full case of wine.  The tour is really cool and informative and the wines from the Rhone & Australia are top producers from our mine and Mike’s personal cellars!

About Menu for Hope - Chez Pim

View our lot and get instructions on how to donate - Vinography

Happy Bidding!

Over the next couple weeks, I’ll be out and about pouring some vino in select locales in Arkansas, packing both the 06 Syrah as well as a bottle or two of the 2007.  Get there early for a taste of the new vintage!  Here’s a list of what I got going on so far:

Wednesday December 9th
5:30 - 7:00 pm
By the Glass
(501) 663-9463
5713 Kavanaugh
Little Rock, AR 72207

Thursday, December 10th
4:00-6:00 pm
Colonial Wine & Spirits
11200 West Markham Street
Little Rock, AR 72211-2802
(501) 223-3120
website

Saturday, December 19th
2:00-5:00 pm
Liquor World
3330 North College Avenue
Fayetteville, AR 72703-3815
(479) 587-0480
website

Ya’ll come on out!  As a tribute to my hometown of Pine Bluff, I thought I’d share a little video of one of the greatest low down dirty bluesmen of all time,  Cedell Davis = Badass. I was fortunate enough to get to see him in college once and before I knew it, a friend of mine, himself a righteous player, was up on stage and eventually toured around with him. You gotta love the old school butter knife blues.  See you at the tastings.

So usually this is how it goes:  It’s two or three days before -insert important family meal here- and I’m sent out to buy wine, which is one of my favorite things to do. Having been in the wine industry for almost ten years now, I still love walking up and down the rows of wine bottles, discovering new wines, and finding really good older vintages from really great wineries, priced to move.  I try to find something I don’t see everyday, something that is surprising. I think “Wow, they have this here!”.  Maybe I’ll ask the merchant, but mostly I just wander around until something strikes my fancy.  I usually end up with case or so of mostly $20-30 dollar wines but there are always two or three “expensive” bottles that go for $40-80 bottle. These are the ones I covet, the ones I hide from my family and friends and only with a wink and a nod, do I invite the select chosen to taste and “appreciate”.  Typical hiding places in the past have included the bathroom, the upstairs bedroom, the laundry room, or the back patio (which I’ve found approaches cellar temp during Thanksgiving but is too cold at Christmas).

I think that’s pretty typical of the wine lover to not let Great Aunt Pearlie fill her glass to the rim with a 2000 Chapoutier La Pavillion you dug up from the cellar and gulp it down in two takes. That the wine we’re really excited to try be savored, or at least contemplated more than alcohol spiked grape juice that gets you drunk faster than Bud Lite. But whatever. This year it’s different. After reading this post from Alder over at Vinography, I’ve revealing my secret wine stash and making sure everyone at the table gets the good stuff. There will be no hiding places, no winks or nods and we’ll have the Hermitage next to the quaffable red.  And of course, there will be a couple bottles of the VERGE Syrah to go around.  My question is - Can I still use the decanter?

Speaking of whiskey. Oh wait….we were talking about Syrah and how great it pairs with all things turkey, not whiskey. While that may be true, there’s something to be said for a pre dinner (or post) cocktail. In the fall, when the nights are cold and the fireplace is burning, we like to cozy up to one of these. It’s also a great way to get Uncle Roger to spill the beans about that time he went to New Orleans back in the 70’s. Man that sounded fun!  Also of note, by proclamation of the Louisiana State Legislature, this is the official cocktail of New Orleans.

The Classic Sazerac

1 teaspoon Pernod (or preferably Herbsaint)
2 ounces Cognac (or bourbon or rye) - We like rye but mostly just have Makers Mark around
3-4 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
Lemon twist

Coat the inside of a chilled old fashioned glass with the Pernod, discarding the excess. Shake the Cognac and bitters vigorously with ice. Strain into the prepared glass. Twist the lemon peel over the drink and drop it in.

At Thanksgiving that is. We would be completely remiss in our duties if we didn’t share with you this fantastic recipe from the Lee Brothers Southern Cookbook. Being from the South, I’m constantly looking for inspirational sources of fine southern cookery.  After perusing several editions I have of Junior League’s finest as well as the Foxfire book of Appalachian Cookery, I remembered making this pie some time ago and knew it was the one I wanted to share.  The Lee Brothers are definitely not unknown, writing for Travel and Leisure, Martha Stewart Living and operating their own mail order catalogue of Southern pantry staples - The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanuts Catalogue. When I need a modern or updated approach to a classic, I start with these guys. Oh…and our first favorite course - the turkey!

Sweet Potato Buttermilk Pie
For 6 people
Time:  1 Hour, 10 minutes

1.5 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into 1/2 inch dice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3 large eggs, separated
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4 cup whole or low fat buttermilk
1 Sweet Pie Crust - store bought or make your own, (pre-baked)

1.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees

2. Pour 1.5 inches of water into a 3 quart stockpot with a strainer basket and bring to a boil over medium high heat.  Add the sweet potatoes, cover, and steam until fork tender, about 20 minutes.  Strain the sweet potatoes, place in a large bowl, and let cook to room temperature. Mash them to a smooth puree with a fork or a potato masher. You should have 1 1/4 cups puree; discard any excess. Add the butter, lemon juice, nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt, mixing thoroughly with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula after each addition.

3.  In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks lightly with a whisk, about 30 seconds. Add the sugar and beat until they are creamy lemon-yellow color, about 1.5 minutes. Add the egg mixture to the sweet potato mixture and stir with a wooden spoon or a rubber spatula until the eggs are thoroughly incorporated and the filling is a consistent bright orange color. Add the flour a little at a time, stirring after each addition, until thoroughly incorporated. Add the buttermilk and stir to incorporate.

4. Wash the whisk in a stream of hot water to wash away any butter residue, then rinse in cold water to cool it down and dry with a paper towel. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, about 1.5 minutes. With a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, gently fold the egg whites into the sweet potato buttermilk mixture and thoroughly incorporate. Pour the mixture into the prepared pie crust and bake on the middle rack until the center is firm and set, 35-40 minutes.

5.  Remove the pie from the oven and cool completely on a rack. Serve at room temperature (or cover with plastic wrap, chill in the refrigerator and serve cold), with a dollop of whipped cream and a mint leaf on top.

We met Maria Finn one summer night on a rooftop in San Francisco. It was one of those very Bay Area-inspired underground dinners, where you don’t quite know where you’re going, what you’ll eat or who you’ll be sitting across from. It’s odd but exhilarating, and you can be sure that whoever joins you at that table will be equally freakish about food (and that’s a good thing). Enter Ms. Finn, pen and paper in tow, asking poignant questions, infectious curiosity about her dining partners, and immediately igniting conversation. Everyone has a great story to tell, which is what amazing journalists, like Maria, teach us. We’re pretty obsessed with storytelling around here, so we knew we found a kindred spirit - no shortage of vibrant anecdotes. Check out her current project, City Dirt, the Bay Area Weekly Garden Newsletter for Foodies, Foragers, Tree-Huggers and Beauty Lovers.

As part of our PEOPLE WE DIG series, we got a chance to ask Maria a few of our burning questions:

VWC: Let’s see, you are a journalist, an author, a garden designer, and a Tango dancer, among other things. What’s a day in the life of Maria Finn like?

MF: I have my ideal day and then my typical day. Ideal day would be a morning hike in the Tennessee Valley or Marin Headlands with a girlfriend, come home and have coffee, write for a few hours, then in the afternoon work on a garden drawing/design for a few hours, then have dinner with boyfriend and friends on my rooftop, then go out and dance tango late at night. Usually what happens is I start drinking coffee, answering emails and making “to-do” lists, etc, then frantically fit in the other stuff–relationships, exercise, writing, dance and cooking around the chaos.

VWC: From our perspective, living on a houseboat could very easily epitomize life on the fringe. For all of us land dwellers out here, how would you describe the scene?

MF: I’m not sure about “fringe” as I have a washer and dryer for the first time in my adult life, but I love it. The view, light and scent changes all the time. When fall and winter come, new seabirds arrive daily, at times seals swim by, and on some nights phosphorescence glow in the water. I see the experience as learning to adjust to uncertainty and constant change that could translate into other segments of my life, but mostly, I’m awed by the beauty every day.

VWC: We’ve quickly become addicted to City Dirt, looking forward to the stories and recipes it holds each week. What inspired the launch?

MF: I’ve done a lot of travel writing in the past, but after moving to Northern California, really just wanted to be here and get to know it better. As well, I fell in love with the progressive food movement taking place here, so through City Dirt, I get to meet and profile people involved in eco-forward gardening and a new farm-to-table approach to cooking. Plus, I hit up great chefs for recipes and get to try them myself.

VWC: You have some epic adventures under your belt, so we have to ask - is there an unforgettable food experience you could share with us? Just a little tiny snapshot?

MF: The most “poetic” meal I ever had was a lunch Joel Robuchon prepared at the Four Seasons in New York City. I couldn’t tell you exactly what I had, but the experience felt like the time I saw Octavio Paz read his poetry at St. John’s the Divine. There was something seamless and transcendent about it. As for abroad, I yearn for the steaks in Argentina, but one of my most memorable meals was when I arrived in Cancun after spending three months in Havana, Cuba, where the food is really, really bad. I knew some natives in Cancun and they took me to a little thatched hut on the outskirts of town and we had cochinita pibil - piglet slow cooked with sour orange and annatto seeds. The older woman who made it watched over the table and finally said to me, “Didn’t I tell you it would be the best thing you ever had.” It pretty much was.

VWC: We admit, we’re obsessed with beverages of all kinds, so we always ask: what’s your current beverage of choice?

MF: Wine, of course! I’m not just saying that because you make wine. I love the passion of winemakers, vineyards in early spring, when yellow mustard is growing between rows, the stories behind the bottles, the connections made over opened bottles of wine, and the protean relationship it has with food. Vintners turn landscape into a sublime pleasure. Bless you all.

Even though I’ve been attending wine events for years now, I still love them.  I like talking to new people, tasting wines I haven’t tried and if I can sneak away from the table for a minute or two, grabbing a tasty snack which is usually something beyond just bread and cheese.  Every once in a while an event comes around that is a perfect combination of good wine, good food and a great cause. Artisano is just such an event and I’m thrilled that they asked VERGE to be one of their obviously select group of wineries. From their site:

Artisano is a celebration of small production, locally handcrafted wine, food and art and the people who produce it. It takes place in Geyserville, CA , the heart of Sonoma County’s Wine Country. The event features an opportunity to:

• Discover local artisan ultra-premium wines rarely available to the general public
• Enjoy small plates from well known restaurants featuring locally raised meat and produce
• Sample artisan cheeses, charcuterie, chocolates, etc from gourmet artisan food producers
• Browse and purchase paintings, ceramics, fused glass, sculptures, other original works of art from several of the region’s premier artists
• Enjoy chef demonstrations and book signings with local celebrity chefs
• Participate in a live and silent auction including rare, hard to find lots of artisan wines and incredible destination vacation trips
• Dance to fabulous live music

Saturday, November 14, 2009 from 12-5 pm

Geyserville Inn, Geyserville, California – The back lawn area with beautiful panoramic vineyard and mountain views.

It’s really hard to beat a lineup like that. The event is benefiting Slow Food Sonoma County School Garden Project.  Check out some of the food peeps who are attending.  Wow!  I’m especially excited to see what Gerald Hirigoyen - Executive Chef and Owner of Piperade in SF - comes out with.  And I’m always down to hear a little Steve Pile.

Buy Tickets - Here
Artisano on Facebook